Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Belize: Day 1


Getting to Belize was pretty straightforward most of the way: from LGA to ATL, and then ATL to BZE. The last leg was the most interesting: taking a "puddle jumper" from BZE to SPR (San Pedro), the little town of about 12,000 on Ambergris Caye.

This was aviation as it started: small planes, little corrugated metal hangars, a small building amounting to little more than a lobby. Our luggage was rolled out to the plane on a hand-drawn cart; the luggage compartment looked like an addition to the hull. Our plane seated twelve, which included the jump seat next to the pilot. The door opened to become the ladder to the ground.

This flight in itself was uneventful, except for flying much closer (under 2000 feet) than a jetliner. We saw the water, numerous islands, and seated behind the pilot, the runway as we approached. We appeared to slide a little to the right as we came in - presumably the effect of some wind.

At the airport, we collected out luggage from a sheltered area, then walked all of two or three blocks to the hotel. Once checked in, we went to our rooms, arrayed around aU-shaped courtyard that opened to the sea. From there, we could see the dive shop, our boat, and the reef far offshore.

We stayed at the Sunbreeze Hotel, and dived with "Hugh Parkey's Scuba Adventure" or some similar name. I would recommend both. The hotel's staff and associated restaurant were great, and Kevin, the manager of the dive shop, was a square dealer. At one point, when I cancelled a deep dive to to a computer error, he came out and did a dive with me and my buddy, so that we could dive the Blue Hole the next day.

The first day was mostly spent traveling, followed by the business of arriving. I got to know my roommate, a camera assistant in the film industry I'll call E, and other divers - notably MG, MF, JS, and R. On most dives, we were together as a subgroup, and we dined out in the evenings afterwards.

San Pedro is a small town. There are all of three streets; the town map indicates which are paved and which are not - a feature which may need to be updated at some point, as there was some development going on. Most traffic is either golf cart or bicycles, though some small vans and the occasional car were spotted as well.

For dining, you have to get away from the hotel. The hotel food is good, but it's also relatively expensive (that is, reasonable for Manhattan, but overpriced compared to where the locals eat). Look for Shelly's; Briana's, and then a small green shack selling Papusas out front. These stuffed, grilled tortillas are a staple there, and this particular place had a great stewed chicken. Anywhere you go, try the grilled fish. It doesn't get much better, especially as "local sourcing" goes.

Some folks had been there a few days earlier and spoke of seeing sharks, rays, eels, and other beautiful sea creatures.

By the end of the evening, we were all tired. Belize is on Mountain Time compared to the US, so us New Yorkers were two hours ahead - after a long day of travel, ready to hit the hay by 2200 local (10 PM). We went to sleep, 

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